Monday, August 17, 2009

Guatemala

Last summer I discovered a Latin American gem - Guatemala. I was invited to accompany three travel companions, one a native Guatemalan, on a two week journey through the country. I returned with a deep appreciation for the country’s history and cultural heritage. Colonial cities, outstanding cultural and archaeological sights, and rich indigenous artistry are among the many attractions along the way.


Antigua:

Antigua has a decidedly international flair being one of the largest Spanish language school venues in Latin America, and it draws visitors from around the world. Steeped in history and an abundance of colonial architecture, the city is a delight to explore. It will not take long for Antigua to cast a spell on you. Photo opportunities are plentiful at every turn with colorful stucco walls, arched wooden doorways and views of the surrounding volcanic peaks. Strolling about the cobblestone streets, the echoes of splashing fountains lure you across thresholds into charming courtyards. Unexpected treats await you - behind glass counters a candy shop displays exotic delicacies fashioned from honey, figs, and apricots, while across the street customers line up outside a bakery for fresh banana bread. Known for Mayan indigenous arts, there is no shortage of remarkable textiles, carved wooden masks and other crafts that are signature Guatemalan. On Saturdays, Antigua hosts a bustling market - the buzz of activity entices you to wind your way around the maze of vendor stalls and a cornucopia of foodstuffs. Antigua has a vast selection of lodging choices from rustic inns to elegantly restored convents, and restaurants from the casual cafe to the elaborate gourmet satisfy every appetite. The ever present hospitality and charm of Antigua makes it a memorable destination choice.


Lake Atitlan:

We spent three days on Lake Atitlan, a crater lake ringed by volcanoes where thirteen Mayan villages dot their way around the lake. Many inhabitants are present day descendants of the pre-conquest Maya, and wear the multi-colored traditional dress that distinguishes one village from the next. At our lakeside hotel in cosmopolitan Panajachel we surrendered to relaxation in hammocks strung along arched walkways, and swayed to the beat of marimba music lightly drifting through the hotel. While in Atitlan we embarked on a must-see day trip to the Thursday market in Chichicastenango where a dizzying display of colors, sights, and sounds dazzled the senses amidst white-washed church walls and a stark blue sky. We also took a boat excursion across the lake to the hamlet of Santiago Atitlan, set in the shadow of a turbulent history. The colonial church in Santiago Atitlan is well worth a visit; it is representative of the blending of Mayan and Catholic beliefs and the carved wooden altar at its forefront is a wondrous example - a mountain peak culminated by a cross symbolizes the Mayan world while dozens of statues of saints line the walls in indigenous garb. Atitlan, at the heart of Mayan culture, is a genuine Guatemalan experience.


Tikal:

Picture a 45 minute hike through jungle darkness accompanied by the shrieks of howler monkeys and the melodious cries of the toucan as the first morning light begins to spread through the trees. You wind your way up the wooden steps of scaffolding beside a towering pyramid, and seat yourself on a worn block of stone carefully stacked in place two thousand years before. There you await sunrise in swirls of fog, inhaling the sweet air while a cool breeze gently soothes you. This is Tikal National Park, and a pre-dawn sunrise hike was the highlight of my Guatemalan odyssey. Sitting in the company of strangers from around the globe, I felt a deep connection to the sanctity of the site in the silence of first light. Tikal was once a flourishing Mayan city-state, and its ruins are one of the best preserved examples of the stronghold. Atop a 200 foot pyramid known as Templo IV you marvel at the peaks of sister pyramids jutting from the tops of the green jungle canopy and soak in the wonder of it all. Following sunrise, we were treated to a two hour guided tour of the site’s massive pyramids, some of the tallest in the Mayan realm. The Parque Nacional Tikal is a fabulous archaeological site, well worth the time spent to travel there, a one hour flight from Guatemala City or for the more adventurous, an 8 hour bus ride into the northern department of Peten. We opted for the 8 hour bus ride past scenery and villages that are characteristic of Guatemala and its resilient people.


Elaine Pike-A Happy Traveler

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