Gorilla Tracking in Rwanda

We had been climbing for what seemed like hours. The path was steep and unrelenting, straight up through the bamboo forested mountain. The mud under our boots often gave way, so we steadied ourselves with our hiking sticks or whatever tree or root we could grasp. The sharp brambles tore at our arms and legs, safari ants roamed the trails, we ached, our breathing was labored, sweat dripped from every pore, but we struggled on until...

The guide put up a hand to halt us. There was a movement in the dense forestation and then, before us in serene repose, was a 400lb silverback mountain gorilla with his family of black backs, females, and juveniles. A soft gasp came from our small group. We were allowed to be in the presence of these beautiful animals for one too- short hour.

After months of planning, our trip began with a flight to Kigali, Rwanda in February. The silverback gorillas there are among the last in the world, and many precautions are taken to ensure their safety. Guards with AK 47s protect the animals against poachers. Safari travelers are asked to stand at a distance of seven yards and control coughs while in the gorilla's presence, as they are very susceptible to our germs.

Our first day was easy. We awoke at 6am, piled into a van, and took a short hike through crop fields and bamboo forest before we found a family of gorillas. A female without a hand, lost in a trap placed by poachers, was working on a root. The babies were playing while the females watched. It was a bucolic. We could not guess what rigorous hikes lay ahead.

The next day, we started at the same park headquarters but headed straight up the mountainside. We could not stop to take pictures or catch our breath. We knew where the family was located and we had to get there before they moved.

The ground was slick under our feet from the overnight rains and we slid and stumbled up the mountain. After several hours, word came that we were near. Our equipment was stripped from us and we carefully moved across the mountainside until we found the gorilla family nestled into the steep slope. The trackers cut spaces for us to move in the dense vegetation with their machetes.

A female with her six month old baby was wonderful to watch. She was feeding him and looking at him with such maternal love. The silverback father lay nearby, watching with a loving and proud look on his face. We were honored to witness this domestic scene. The hour passed quickly and we were forced to leave the family in peace.

The trip down the mountain was more harrowing than the trip up. We all fell several times and were coated with mud. Some women decided at this point to just sit on their bottoms and slide their way down some of the steeper areas. Back at the lodge, cookies, tea, and beer were waiting for us weary trackers. Dinner that evening was again animated with discussion of the wonders of the day. We were sad to leave Rwanda with its gorillas, wonderful people, and beautiful scenery, but excited to move on to Uganda.

We headed on to the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest. It was a long drive on bumpy roads but we finally arrived at the lovely lodge nestled on the side of a steep hill looking out at the heavily forested mountain. This forest is home to four gorilla families and we were excited about our final gorilla visit.

We were driven again to an area where we had seen guides waiting for their trackers the day before. The climbing was even steeper this time. Two hours in, we heard the gorillas were moving and turned around. The ground was steep and there was no trail. We finally overtook the family of 20 beside a stream.

This was the largest family we had seen, and they were only 6 or 7 feet away. The silverback lounged on his side, caressing the back of a female. Little two year olds played and wrestled, sometimes beating their chests to mimic the adult males. One of the females came over and touched someone in our group, then ran back across the stream to sniff her finger. We were strangers in their world.

Our descent was again steep and slippery. We slid down the trail, and then came to a cliff where we were helped into our vehicle. All in all, it was the most memorable day of all. With sadness, we realized that this would be our last visit with these beautiful, special treasures on our planet. May they survive.

Training, logistics, and planning

Planning for our trip began almost a year beforehand, when we signed on with Volcanoes Safari Company for a 14 day trip to Rwanda and Uganda to visit the endangered Mountain Gorilla. Only some 700 mountain gorillas are left in this world and they reside in the volcanic mountains of Rwanda, Uganda and Congo. Gorilla permits can be hard to obtain as there are only so many issued for each day, so it pays to book early.

Preparation for the trip began in earnest as soon as it was booked. Travelers should be in reasonably good shape to withstand the rigors of the climb. A good cardio and fitness plan is essential to withstand the rigors of the experience. The mountains are steep and the altitude is between 5000 to 10000 feet. You might be lucky to find your gorilla family within a short hour but some visits can take up to eight hours.

Choosing the right clothing and gear is also essential for a trip of this type. First and foremost are the right hiking boots. Good, sturdy, mid-level, waterproof hiking boots are important. They should be well broken-in before the trip. Breathable long sleeved shirts that protect arms from the sharp thorns are suggested, as are light weight pants. The weather can start out cold in the morning but gradually warms up with the day and the amount of exertion. A Gortex-type waterproof/windproof jacket provides necessary protection from the elements. Gaiters protect from safari ants and from the tremendous amount of mud encountered on each climb.

Pat Nesbitt - Travel Consultant