Rich culture. Vibrant colors. Warm hospitality. Opulent
palaces. Flavorful cuisine. Peaceful oases tucked into crowded city streets. When
reflecting on our recent trip to India I found it challenging to settle on one
particular phrase or defining experience to describe it. Rather, India struck me
as a place of stark contrasts, captivating in its distinct atmosphere and
beauty.
My husband and I had the opportunity of a lifetime to travel
with friends to India for our close friends’ wedding, with events spanning over
a week throughout the country. (Tip: our itinerary was established
based on the wedding-related events, but you will definitely want to work with
your agent who can arrange accommodations, guides, transfers, and everything in
between. Needless to say, it can feel a bit overwhelming at the start.)
 |
| A hazy sunrise from our hotel in Nariman Point, Mumbai |
Upon exiting the airport, you become keenly aware that this
is a place of both wealth and extreme poverty. While some of these conditions
can be rather difficult to witness, it is a reminder that the value of travel
is seeing the world with new eyes. That being said, we consistently felt safe
and observed tremendous generosity, kindness, and hospitality throughout the
trip.
Our Indian adventure began in the bustling, urban city of Mumbai.
Our friend (aka “The Groom”) graciously toured us around the upscale Marine
Drive area along the Arabian Sea and throughout neighboring parts of the city. Our
group was quite taken with the sheer number of people and the frenzy of
activity. Vendors and food stalls lined the streets, auto-rickshaws whizzed by
with buzzing motors and honking horns, mothers dressed in colorful saris walked
their children to school, and cricket players practiced intently on the
University fields.
 |
| Gateway of India, Mumbai |
We briefly stopped at the
Gateway of India,
sitting on the edge of the Mumbai Harbor. The monument is one of the most
popular attractions in Mumbai, so when you’ve had enough of the crowds be sure
to duck into the nearby
Taj
Mahal Palace for a sweet lime-infused refreshment – a great way to beat the
heat.
After some more exploration and dance practice at the
groom’s family’s house (more on that later) we were bound for Rajasthan in Northern
India.
The New York Times recently
published an
article
about the popularity of “wedding season” in Rajasthan, with celebrations taking
place in former royal residences from October through February. In fact, a
number of tour operators are now offering itineraries in which travelers can participate
as guests in the festivities – a bit unusual, but certainly an enriching travel
experience!
 |
| Arrival at Khimsar Fort, the site of the wedding |
Upon arrival in Jodhpur, Rajasthan, we had a 90-minute
transfer to the site of the celebration,
Khimsar Fort, a 16
th century palace situated in the Thar Desert. The
Fort itself is quite opulent, with stained glass windows and detailed
ornamentation revealing intricate stone carvings, turrets, and ramparts. Saffron
garlands were draped from doorways and flowers were creatively arranged
throughout the grounds. The bride’s family welcomed guests at the entrance as drummers
and dancers provided poolside entertainment. Female guests had henna painted on
their hands as part of the
mehendi ceremony while others were pampered
with massages and enjoyed Rajasthani-style cuisine as the sun began to set over
the desert.
 |
| Post-mehendi, post-massage afternoon entertainment |
I should disclose at this point that I have not historically
been a fan of Indian food. However, everything changed once we arrived at the
Fort. Rajasthani cooking is well known for its richness and originality, an
Indian foodie paradise. The exotic scents and flavors of spicy curries and
chutneys can make a fan out of anyone…even a pizza and hot dog enthusiast such
as myself.
 |
| Dramatic landscape of the Dunes, the setting for the Sangeet |
With the bride and groom’s relatives staying in the Fort, our
group tried our hand at “glamping” (luxury camping) in the
Dunes Village about 6 km away. Picture
a brick two-story domed desert hut reached by an open-air jeep with a transfer
on a camel. (Between tuk-tuks, open-air jeeps, and camels, many of our
transportation dreams were fulfilled on this trip!) The Dunes were the setting
for the
Sangeet, an evening celebration where friends, relatives, the bride,
and groom took to the stage to perform choreographed dances and party late into
the night. The group of Americans had been tasked with learning our moves the
day before, and needless to say we performed poorly but had the time of our
lives. At the end of the evening, guests released lanterns into the sky and in
that moment, with Indian and American pop music pounding through the desert, you
just had to pinch yourself and ask, “
Is
this real?” and “
Where in the world
am I?” (300 kilometers from the border of Pakistan to be precise.)
 |
| Sneaking a peek under the mandap (canopy) |
After a much-needed restful morning, the preparations for
the wedding ceremony were underway. It should be noted that while this was a
traditional Hindu ceremony, many of the rituals are now commonly practiced across
cultures throughout India. Women were dressed in vibrant, glittering saris accessorized
with bangles, while the men wore traditional Indian tunics and colorful scarves.
As representatives of the groom’s side, we danced in the assembly of the
baraat,
a gathering led by a band of drummers driving up the energy with their thundering
beat.
The enthusiastic procession led into the
site of the ceremony where we were met by the bride’s family and friends lining
the venue in anticipation of the groom’s arrival. Relatives from both sides
embraced and exchanged
pink and orange garlands, each color representing the respective family. The
stunning bride made her canopied entrance draped in shimmering golds and reds
with colorful sets of bangles adorning both arms.
It was fascinating to witness distinctive
traditions such as the Jai Mala, an exchange of garlands between the bride and groom as
well as the hilarious
Joota Chhupai in which the bride’s
friends steal the groom’s shoes once he is seated for the ceremony. (The shoes
are returned only when the groom pays a hefty ransom.) The Hindu ceremony was conducted in Sanskrit; however, we were fortunate
to receive the play-by-play from knowledgeable guests. The evening wound
down as guests enjoyed masala tea and snacks at sunset. We were treated to a
live concert and dancing, all while taking in the dramatic views of the Fort and
desert after dark.
 |
| The beautiful bride and groom during the ceremony |
This tremendous travel
experience gave us a great deal of insight into the culture, traditions, and splendor
of this part of India. Exhausted, we returned the next day to the town
of Jodhpur for a little R&R. And to give our Travelog readers a bit of rest
as well, the tales of Indian travel adventure will continue in
Part
II: Exploring the “Blue City” and Palaces of Jodhpur, Delhi and Agra – check
back next week for more!
- Jennie Reed, Travel 100 Group
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